Welcome to Vancouver’s glorious North Shore.
When most people picture Vancouver, they think of a beautiful ocean-side city with mountain peaks and forests in the background. The North Shore is home to those mountains and forests. So if you skip the gorgeousness of the North Shore in favour of shopping in chain stores downtown, you’ve really missed the essence of the Vancouver experience. I’m a food and travel writer who lives and works in North Vancouver, and I want to share the hidden joys of this incomparable spot with you and your fellow travelers. I welcome you in for an Internet dip and hope you’ll choose to immerse yourself once you hit the coast.
First thing to know is that the North Shore is made up of three municipalities: the City of North Vancouver, the District of North Vancouver and West Vancouver, the latter home to some of Canada’s priciest real estate. Don’t let that put you off – you can do a little goggling at houses worth millions of dollars, but West Vancouver has plenty to offer regular folk, from family-friendly beaches to spectacular viewpoints, and from trendy shops and restaurants to secondhand stores. North Vancouver, City and District, is distinguished by lush rainforest, rushing creeks, mountain trails and water views of the city. This is where you’ll find some of the world’s best mountain bike trails, along with spectacular hikes, snowshoeing trails and, of course, three popular ski resorts: Mount Seymour, Grouse Mountain and Cypress Mountain.
Here’s an insider’s list of some of the North Shore’s best. I’ll be adding to it on a regular basis. Please feel free to send questions to me at this website.
North Vancouver
Lonsdale is the “main street” of North Vancouver, stretching up from the waterfront and including off-ramps to Highway 1, east and west. (Hwy 1 West takes you to the turnoffs for West Vancouver, Horseshoe Bay, Squamish and Whistler; Hwy 1 East takes you to Lynn Valley, to Mount Seymour Parkway en route to Deep Cove, and, eventually into downtown Vancouver over the Ironworkers’ Memorial Bridge, a.k.a. the “Second Narrows” bridge.) Grocery stores, gelato joints, pizzerias, sushi spots, and banks can all be found along this relatively bustling street. Though parking is free on Lonsdale and its side streets, parking time is limited, so make sure you know how much time you can be in your spot before you park and set out for a stroll. Local meter “maids” are maddeningly efficient. Here are some of Lonsdale’s highlights.
Lonsdale Quay: Perfectly located at the foot of Lonsdale on the waterfront, right near the entrance to the SeaBus, the Quay is a don’t-miss site with a food fair that features frozen yogurt, crepes and Mexican fare, among other treats, a craft beer vendor, an artisan wine shop and an excellent fishmonger, as well as flower shops, artful Canadian souvenirs, kitchenware and a “love shop” (wink). There’s two hours of free parking underneath the Quay, and parking’s free evenings and weekends at the adjacent ICBC parkade. There’s a hotel attached that gets good reviews from friends of ours. Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., May-October, there’s a farmer’s market on the East Plaza that’s well worth investigation (http://www.artisanmarkets.ca/), and from Friday-Sunday and holidays between late June and the end of August, there’s face-painting and other kid-friendly activities from noon to 4 p.m. Live music, free zumba lessons on Fridays from noon to 1 p.m., dance lessons on Saturday afternoons from 2-5 p.m. – there’s almost always something going on here, and it’s a lovely family environment. For specifics, look under the “events” listing at http://www.lonsdalequay.com/
Shipyards Night Market: Fridays from 5-10 p.m., early May to late September, at Shipbuilders’ Square, one block east of the Lonsdale Quay on the waterfront. Vendors offer everything from pastries to First Nations art, there’s live music, and 15 food trucks offering everything from Filipino specialties to pakoras ensure that nobody leaves hungry. 138 Victory Ship Way. http://vancouversnorthshore.com/whats-happening/night-market-the-shipyards/
On other nights, consider having an appetizer here, an appetizer there, and a main somewhere else, maybe starting at:
Anatoli Souvlaki: A big, relatively casual Greek joint where the excellent kitchen makes no false moves. The menu features classic Greek vegetarian dishes like saganaki (fried cheese) and spanakopita (spinach pie), and terrific lamb of various types. Friendly service, large portions and cold retsina make this a great hang-out with something for every member of the family. There’s a patio out back, too. 5 Lonsdale Ave. http://anatolisouvlaki.com/
The District: As popular for its lively, youthful vibe as it is for its delicious Gulf Island mussels and “patat friet” (fries), The District has proved so successful that it’s spawned a couple of siblings – El Tapas, one block east, and The Little District, further up Lonsdale. Portions are a little bigger than traditional tapas but not as big as most restaurants’ mains, which means you might want a couple apiece. Its wine selection is sophisticated and astute. 13 Lonsdale Ave. http://www.thedistrictsocial.com/
Fishworks: An outstanding modern fish restaurant, located in a heritage building, decorated with photos of olde tyme Northe (okay, it’s over) Vancouver. The entrees run between $20-30. In spot prawn season (May) Kate had an unbelievably good appetizer special of spot prawns while her friend demolished a large bowl of velvety lobster bisque. We’d started off sharing half a dozen oysters, washed it all down with a crisp bottle of Burrowing Owl chardonnay – Burrowing Owl being one of the Okanagan Valley’s most celebrated wineries -- and the whole thing cost less than $100. Much awarded; highly recommended. 91 Lonsdale Ave. http://www.fishworks.ca/
Pier 7: Ideally located at the foot of Lonsdale, overlooking the water (a rare situation on the North Shore). Fish tacos, pulled pork sliders and sophisticated seafood mains make this an ideal spot for out-of-towners, whether you just want a drink and a snack or a stylish, lingering lunch. Across the water is the city; it is customary to look longingly upon the city’s enticing lustre while on the shores of the North Shore, and look longingly at the North Shore’s peaceful lushness when in the city. 25 Wallace Mews. http://pierseven.ca/
Tamarind Hill: Malaysian food has had many influences over the centuries and this cosy oasis provides a fine introduction to such dishes as roti canai (fried bread with curry dip), satay, and laksa (spicy soup). Is this the best Malaysian food ever? No. You will find better at Banana Leaf in Vancouver, for example; Tamarind Hill tends to win third place in terms of Malaysian restaurants city-wide. But that’s still saying a lot; its food is fresh, well-made, and delicious, and if you’re over here, you won’t have to cross a bridge. On the Lower Mainland, that counts for a lot. 1440 Lonsdale. http://www.tamarindhill.ca/home
Elsewhere in North Vancouver
Andrew’s on Eighth: Century-old buildings are few and far between around here, which is why it’s a treat to take an hour to sit down with a cup of coffee and a sandwich or pastry at the charming Andrews on Eighth, in North Vanouver’s Victoria Park neighbourhood. Staff will even lend you a blanket to take to the park across the street so you can admire the building from afar. Andrews Street at Eighth. https://www.facebook.com/AndrewsOn8th.
Cactus Club Café: This chain restaurant is home to beautiful, cheerful servers, a jukebox by the washroom, and satisfying hot wings, dry ribs, quesadillas, burgers, etc. 1598 Pemberton in North Vancouver, and in The Village at Park Royal in West Vancouver. http://www.cactusclubcafe.com/
Earls North Vancouver Tin Palace: You’ll see locations of this popular chain in various spots all over the Lower Mainland, but there’s one in North Vancouver just east of the Lions Gate bridge. Watch for the giant parrots perched on top of the restaurant. Burgers, steaks, and good appetizers are the rule here, along with highly attractive and friendly service. (It’s actually Earls and not Earl’s – sorry, we aren’t in charge of punctuation.) 303 Marine Drive. http://www.cactusclubcafe.com/
Milestones Grill & Bar: Another west coast chain in the casual, family-friendly genre. There’s one in West Vancouver on the south side (meaning the water side) of Marine Drive, just past Park Royal Shopping Centre. http://www.milestonesrestaurants.com/
Golden Pearl Chinese Restaurant: If you’re looking for your basic, familiar North American Chinese food, Golden Pearl’s a fine choice. Located in Park & Tilford Shopping Centre, it offers hot, fresh grub of the sort favoured by families with kids in tow. Billed as Guangdong and Szechuan, it’s not particularly spicy and offers fairly big portions for sharing. Its “deep fried squids with spicy sauce” and minced pork with eggplant in hot garlic sauce are a couple of our favourites. #128-333 Brooksbank Ave. http://goldenpearlrestaurant.com/
Honey Doughnuts & Goodies: Any hike up to Deep Cove’s Quarry rock earns you a stop at Honey Doughnuts,where the divine doughnuts come in three flavours – honey, maple and chocolate. There are healthy housemade options here, too, if you’re into that sort of thing -- brunch dishes, sandwiches and soups. 4373 Gallant Ave., Deep Cove. http://honeydoughnuts.com/food
Mumbai Masala: Good Indian fare in decent portions, in a clean and inviting spot, with friendly service, close to a movie theatre. What more can you ask? The Chicken Tikka Masala is especially good. Located in Park and Tilford Shopping Centre. #770-333 Brooksbank Ave. http://www.mumbaimasala.ca
Westview Oriental Restaurant: When was the last time you saw a restaurant describe itself as “Oriental?” Don’t let the retro name and bland appearance of this strip mall eatery put you off. It’s been there for 20 years and under the current ownership for 10. Try something new rather than your old stand-bys; as a former Calgarian, Kate wouldn’t especially recommend the ginger beef (which was invented, popularized and perfected in Cowtown, not China), and honestly, if all you want from a restaurant is Canadian “Chinese” like fried rice and lemon chicken, you can get that anywhere. The cooks here, who hail from Hong Kong and from China’s Szechuan province, are outstanding, and the menu contains all kinds of unusual goodies, including candied pumpkin with walnuts, Szechuan pepper chicken with exotically papery fried leaves (either spinach or gai lan), and assorted stir-fried lamb dishes. Its dim sum is ordered off a menu, not from carts, which speeds up the process. Always fresh, hot and delicious if you go for the non-Canadian stuff, this is absolutely terrific Chinese food. #108-2609 Westview Dr. http://www.westviewchinese.com/
West Vancouver:
West Vancouver’s Marine Drive functions as its spine, with major detours along the way including Park Royal Malls North and South (whose newer sections include shops like Sephora, Anthropologie and The Loft, and restaurants like Trattoria Italian Kitchen and frozen yogurt emporium Pinkberry), Ambleside Beach, the West Vancouver Aquatic Centre, Dundarave Village and Dundarave Beach. Above Marine Drive is mostly residential housing, worth nosing along for gawking or squawking purposes, depending on your tastes. Below Marine Drive are beaches, community gardens, art galleries, some lucky people’s residences, and the 1.7 km. Centennial SeaWalk, a lovely, flat stroll that stretches from 18th St. to Dundarave Park and is suitable for all ages. One thing to know about West Vancouver – it’s big on rules. (“Well-behaved dogs are allowed on the Centennial Seawalk between 19th Street and 24th Street only, and they must stay behind the fence,” says the website. You won’t be behind the fence yourself, so your dog will be separated from you by the fence; it’s goofy.) Other things, like skateboards and bikes, are also not allowed on the SeaWalk. There’s a stuffiness to West Vancouver that can be tedious to the free-er spirited, but it’s absolutely beautiful, so we put up with it.
Ambleside Farmers’ Market: Sundays from 10 a.m.-3 p.m. from early May to late October, in the 1500-block of Bellevue, this ever-growing market close to the West Van waterfront is loaded with fruit and veg vendors, bakers, organic chicken farmers, jewellery makers, musicians, and a couple of food trucks (we recommend the Korean vendor), making for a festive way to spend a bit of time in the sunshine.Why not pick up a snack and head for Ambleside or Dundarave beach, or a local park? http://www.artisanmarkets.ca/
La Regalade: For many years, we’d do our restaurant celebrating at La Regalade, a delightful, high energy French bistro whose classic dishes are prepared by Chef Alain Raye and whose guests were greeted by his charming wife, Brigitte. Sadly, Brigitte has apparently decamped and her warmth and humour are dearly missed, but chef’s still got game. You really can’t miss with starters like the herring with warm potatoes or blue cheese tarte with pear, anything featuring duck, and you must save room for the fabulous desserts. 2232 Marine Drive, West Vancouver. http://www.laregalade.com/
Activities:
Ambleside Park and Beach: Here’s a great hang-out, whatever your age and interests. It’s long and lean, has a concession (with washrooms), playground, and waterpark, basketball court, a skateboard area that’s being renovated, tennis courts, sports fields and it offers a nice view of the Lions Gate bridge, especially when the cruise ships chug along out of the Port of Vancouver. Swimming is permitted. There aren’t many picnic tables, so bring your own chairs or a blanket. At the east end of the 24 hectare beach is a 3.5 hectare off-leash dog park where dogs can dash into the ocean and play, although they can’t be on the beach elsewhere. Nearby is a Duck Pond where dogs, of course, are not allowed. At 14th St. and Marine Drive. http://westvancouver.ca/parks-recreation/parks/ambleside-park
Dundarave Beach: Transport a backpack of food and picnic gear and head to West Vancouver via Highway 1 to the 21st St. exit, heading south to Marine Drive. Turn west (right) and proceed to 25th St. Turn south (left) and find a parking spot. You are at Dundarave Beach. There’s a wading pool, a playground, and a concession. While you can’t light fires on the beach (alas), you can fire up a BBQ and spend a wonderful evening swimming, looking for seals, and watching the sunset. (There are special bins for the disposal of smoldering charcoal.) Wine/beer aren’t officially permitted, but as long as you’re discreet about it, are adults, and drink it out of plastic rather than glass, nobody is likely to care. You can always plead ignorance because you’re from out of town. There’s a playground there, too, and a pier.
John Lawson Park: The perfect destination for families with young children. A waterfront site, it’s dog-free and has a new splash park, a playground with a “pirate ship,” washrooms, a pier, a pool for tots and food trucks from May until September. At the foot of 17th Street. http://westvancouver.ca/parks-recreation/parks/john-lawson-park
The West Vancouver Aquatic Centre: A terrific, attractive facility with tons to offer the chitlins and their adult companions. It’s an excellent spot to take them on a rainy day, and there are plenty of those. Just sayin’! Marine Drive between 21st and 22nd Streets. http://westvancouver.ca/parks-recreation/community-centres/west-vancouver-community-centre
Whytecliff Park: A rockier beach with interesting places to climb, this spot is popular with scuba divers; it’s Canada’s first Saltwater Marine Protected Area. When you drive in, you’ll see lots of green space suitable for Frisbee-tossing, etc. Follow the signs, go down a path and you’ll get down to the beach. There is a concession in the park, and a playground, there are walks and hikes, and swimming is encouraged. You might want to hit this one on a week-day as it can get very crowded on weekends. End of the 7000 block of Marine Drive; look online for directions. http://westvancouver.ca/parks-recreation/parks/whytecliff-park
Hikes:
Please note that when we mention that dogs can go off-leash on a particular trail, we mean the kind of dogs that don’t take off and go AWOL on a regular basis. Animals can get lost here, so keep close track unless they’re the type of BF that returns regularly to make sure you’re still around. And of course, you MUST pick up after your dog. Fines are steep and the fierce glares of goody-goody dog walkers must not be discounted. Many parks even have free bag dispensers, so there’s no excuse.
North Vancouver
Hastings Creek Trail: A little west on Hoskins where it meets Arborlynn is a small parking lot. Pull in and embark on this fantastic creekside hike, where dogs can ramble along off-leash through the leafy rainforest, tearing away whenever they like to splash in the rushing creek. Thus far, this hike is amazingly uncrowded; it’s an unheralded throwaway by North Shore standards. It takes about an hour and there are 322 steps knocked into the trail (altogether) in its stretch all the way up to the playground outside Ross Road School and back again, but you don’t need to be in tip-top shape. You may well want to take a break along the way to listen to the creek, marvel at the scenery, and wade in the rocky water, so think about bringing a snack and even a book.
Lynn Creek Park: The entrance to this trail isn’t obvious – a set of stairs off Alderlynn heads downward into a forest on the west side of Lynn Creek. Local dog-owners adore this trail, which is an off-leash paradise until just before you hit Bridgeman Park. Say on the west side of the creek to enjoy these off-leash privileges; the other side is inviting but may require leashes, depending which direction you take. If you don’t have a dog, no worries; this is just a relaxing amble until your return, when you’ll have to climb back up the stairs. No biggie, though; as canyons go, this one is gently hewn.
Lynn Creek Park to Sea to Sky Trail: Enter the Lynn Creek trail mentioned above and go down the stairs from Alderlynn, but as the trail curves right, head left, over the bridge. Turn left at the end of the bridge and walk a bit to reach the Sea to Sky Trail, a glorious forest hike that ultimately links to several other trails, including the Diamond, which takes you up to Lillooett Road. There are more than 200 stairs round trip, but you’ll hardly notice as there are flat-ish parts between them. Dogs can be off-leash in here and they have a wonderful time rushing around, as will you. This can take anywhere from an hour both ways to two, depending on whether you go all the way up to Lillooett Road or not. Other linking trails will take you to the Lynn Suspension bridge (dogs must be leashed there) and Twin Falls.
Seymour Demonstration Forest: Homestead Trail
Mountain bikers love Fisherman’s Trail, also located here, but don’t miss this glorious hike through towering firs. Head to the very top ofLillooett Road and veer right for the parking lot.Take the forest trail to the right and once you enter the forest, quite soon you’ll see a sign on your left marking Homestead Trail. It’s off-leash bliss for dogs on the Homestead trail, with bikes not allowed (although some people flout the rules and ride them in here anyway). Fairly gentle slopes mean you’ll get a work-out, but not a terribly challenging one. The hike loops back to the parking lot and takes 90 minutes to two hours, with a rushing creek, the odd picnic table, a mysterious tunnel to your right on the return loop (optional) and, as you get fairly close to the end, a trail to the left that takes you to a quiet little pond.
Lighthouse Park: So named because the Point Atkinson Lighthouse (no longer manned due to our dumb government) is here, this West Vancouver park is full of beautiful forest trails that lead to rocky cliffs that tumble down to the sea. Truly gorgeous, although you will really need to watch the youngsters on the cliffs. Don’t go if you have a disobedient or clumsy brood. Wear good walking shoes and remember to take your camera. BYO picnic and eat it on the rocks at the end of Seven Sisters Trail, which is close to the entrance end of the parking lot. Don’t go at night. You could get really lost as this is fairly wild and it would be incredibly dark and dangerous on the trails.
Horseshoe Bay Beach: Yes, Horseshoe Bay is where you go to take a ferry, but it’s also a quaint little town where you can take out fish and chips, cast a few fishing lines yourselves, swim, look at the boats in the marina, inspect totem poles and watch the ferries come and go. Take Highway 1 west to the Horseshoe Bay turnoff and keep left to enter the village or you’ll find yourself in the lineup for a ferry. http://westvancouver.ca/parks-recreation/parks/horseshoe-bay-park
Capilano Suspension Bridge: One of the North Shore’s most popular tourist attractions, this 125-year old draw features a suspension bridge that stretches 137 m. across and 70 m above Capilano River. Other draws include a Cliffwalk, a cantilevered walkway attached to a granite cliff, and Treetops Adventure, a series of seven suspension bridges attached to eight 30-ton, 250 year old Douglas-firs, which takes you as high as 110 feet above the forest floor. http://www.capbridge.com/
Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge: The Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge is free. It hovers 50 m. above the canyon floor and offers beautiful creekside trails through second-growth forest (80-100-year-old trees), a swimming hole at 30 Ft. Pool, an Ecology Centre, and a café. Please note that there are some very inviting-looking spots to swim in at this park, but some are dangerous. If you want to go in, make sure you find out the safe spots from someone official. Follow Lynn Valley Road to Peters. Turn right. Go to the end of the road and watch for the signs to Lynn Canyon Park. http://lynncanyon.ca/trails/
Lynn Headwaters: Another gorgeous park, this offers several great walks by a rushing creek. We like the 3 km. Varley Trail, which only takes 30-40 minutes altogether through the woods and isn’t too taxing, so is suitable for kids. The trail is named after the Group of Seven painter Frederick H. Varley, who lived here once upon a time. There are points where you can veer off the trail and walk on the rocks by the creek as it barrels along; very pretty. Take a look at the video on this helpful site, which will also give you directions. http://vancouversnorthshore.com/what-to-do-outdoors/parks-and-recreation-areas/lynn-headwaters-regional-park/
Parks:
Just looking for a short stroll through the woods, possibly with off-leash dog and kids in tow? Check out Eastview Park in North Vancouver, a neighbourhood forest backed up against a school yard that, in itself, boasts three sets of playground equipment plus swings, outdoor basketball hoops and a climbing wall. This lovely little park, located on Rufus Drive/16th Street, a couple of blocks north (toward the mountains) of Mountain Highway on your right, also contains a free 9-hole disc golf course. Bring your own frisbees or get properly kitted out at a sports store. http://www.dgcoursereview.com/reviews.php?id=3829&mode=rev
For official North Vancouver parks information, consult: http://www.communityguide.ca/communities/north-vancouver-bc/things-do/parks
Need a gym while you're in town? Check out Bodyco in Deep Cove, a new spot with friendly and accommodating staff. My friend Laurie Cooper's the owner -- her place is not intimidating or snooty, and she'll bend over backwards (though not literally -- she's not a gymnast) to get you what you need. http://www.bodyco.ca/deepcove/location-details/
To get to Vancouver (though really, why bother?):
You can take the SeaBus to downtown from the Lonsdale Quay area. The SeaBus is an enclosed boat that takes about 10 minutes to whisk you across the inlet and over to Gastown’s Waterfront Station (there are no other stops). It’s well worth the price (about $2.75 for adult single fares) and perfectly clean and safe. Gastown is definitely touristy but interesting home decor and fashion shops have sprung up over the years, along with excellent restaurants. Recommended: The Block (350 W. Cordova) for trendy clothing. Across the street is a magical little place that looks like a junk shop, Salamagundi West (321 W. Cordova). Make sure to go downstairs and explore the giant chest of drawers, packed with cheap but kid-pleasing stocking-stuffer type things.
